The people in the south of Bavaria were so fortunate
To be able to wear lederhosen and suspenders,
The man who wore them won fair woman –
To the rejoicing let him blow his own horn,
The man remained a symbol of regional pride
Somewhere in the Alps will be his own!
And he who never managed to fit in lederhosen
Let him diet forth from the eating throng!
(Thanks to Gerry for the poem)
Our albergues in Galicia have been great. They are run and provided by the council… they are xunta albergues and so far I can recommend all that we’ve used.
Last night in Castro Dozon it was, we think, an old school. There was just us and the Koreans… they camped at one end of the dorm and we were at the other. It was big and bright and airy. The showers were good and hot… nice bathrooms and a well equipped kitchen… what more could a pilgrim ask for?
We did our chores and went in search of a bar. We found one but it was almost a kilometre from the albergue… the price we pay for needing beer.
After a drink or two we asked what time dinner was and were horrified to learn no food! But there was a little shop hidden out back and we had two minutes before it closed. I dashed off with the kitty and had a few frantic minutes feeling like a contestant on supermarket sweep. I returned victorious with bread ham cheese yoghurt crisps and fruit… a feast for dinner.
We set off back to the albergue and settled down for our picnic. We actually only ate half of it… there was enough left for breakfast and a picnic lunch… all for 13 euros! We went to bed happy and full and we slept well.
The Koreans were walking further than us today so we said farewell… we won’t catch them now… we said that maybe we’d see them in Santiago.
We left at 8.00 and followed the arrows back to the bar… where they promptly led us uphill and back to the albergue… albeit on the other side of the road… so we’d added a kilometre to our day before we even started. The only silver lining was that we caught the sun rise… which has become such a big part of this great adventure.
We walked for a bit along the road before heading off into the countryside. It’s chilly but dry and after an hour we stopped at a bench for a drink and to remove coats and to check Gerrys blisters… poor chap has two already. As we busied ourselves a spanish pilgrim trotted over the hill… his attire was interesting… we felt it reminded us of lederhosen and we christened him Hans . .. then Heinz… then Rhudolf… childish of course but it made us smile. Gerry thought he must be single because no wife would allow that outfit … we joked that if Gerry was sharing a dorm with Hans he would wake in the morning with his trousers cut and socks stretched… and he’d appear sheepishly at our door ready to leave in the morning looking all goat-herder-ish
On we walked and the sun rose and warmed us. we’re walking through more forests… a lot of it chestnut. Gerry and I munched our way through several kilometres enjoying chestnut after chestnut… with the odd blackberry thrown in for good measure… such a feast from mother nature.
We stopped for an early lunch in the porch of an old church… we’ve made great use of many of these porches on our journey. Not having coffee and toast makes for hungry pilgrims but we love our picnics and the freedom they give us.
We’re just over halfway and our app tells us that the hills are about to start… it was right too. Up and up we walked… puffing in the heat… Gerry because this is all new to him and me and Maggie because we’re starting to feel the last 950 kilometres in our legs.
Luckily after the up there was down and contrary to what the app said we found a bar. Yippee! We enjoyed a great big coffee and free cake… plus a trip to the bathrooms and all for just 1.20 euros each.
We walked on, passing village after tiny village… I saw a cow in someones garden …we saw scarecrows and statues and walked through more forest and oh joy another hill. We spread out and walked at our own pace… thinking our own thoughts… me and Maggie about our journey… sad because it’s almost over… gerry about the hill and the heat. At the top he turned to me and said. .. there are times when I can really see the advantages of lederhosen… Maggie and me told him he was really sleeping with Hans after that comment!
Our albergue tonight is another xunta. It’s a lovely building with comfy sofas and hot showers. it’s all a bit modern concrete but fabulous nonetheless. Hans is here… along with two Italians and two Mexicans. Oddly after so much time alone we feel a little invaded. We took solace in the nearest bar that turned out to be a diamond in tbe rough.
If you find yourselves in A Laxe visit Ma Jose… it’s really excellent food… you will not be dissapointed… it was a indeed a feast.
Ps Gerrys been here two days and he’s already got maggie squiffy… and after downing nearly two bottles of wine between them… gerry is certainly going on a lederhosen diet!
I’d also like to say thank you all for you support and kind words… it means so much to know folks are routing for us… just 3 days to go.