Days 10 Portugalete – Castro Urdiales

We enjoyed our room picnic last night. We had enough left for breakfast and lunch today. We attempted to see what was on the TV but all we could find was Murder She Wrote in Spanish. We turned in for an early night but our room was just above the hotel lobby and it sounded like a Saga coach holiday was partying all night. They were just the same in the morning… Hey ho. I seemed to sleep regardless. Continue reading


Walking Tourists

Day 9 Bilbao- Portugalete

We wandered back out into Bilbao’s early evening bustle. As usual the streets were awash with noise and colour and movement. There’s a strange mix of people; elegant locals drinking wine or coffee in the tiny bars that line these narrow streets, a good number of young student-looking types hanging out in the trendier places, a fair sprinkling of tourists (complete with guide), the odd pilgrim here and there and plenty of families with young children. It seems that there is a place for everyone in Bilbao! Continue reading

Who put that there?

Day 8 – Lezama – Bilbao

Our hotel last night was a little gem. Just off the camino, peaceful and comfortable but within easy reach of all facilities.

We did our laundry and decided as there was a kettle and a kitchen of sorts we would find a supermarket and eat in. We bought some cured ham and cheese, bread and yoghurts, a very nice avocado, some pears and beer and coke! We ended up with enough for dinner and breakfast and a picnic lunch today… We do like a bargain! Continue reading

Bill’s Mother’s

Day 7 Gernika – Lezama (Zamudio)

Arriving at our hotel yesterday ended up being a bit of a palaver. It was closed on a Sunday. Instead, it had an automated check in. You enter the last 6 digits of the phone number you used on your booking… That took a few attempts. Then it scans your passport and takes your money and spits you out a key… No Sello though and no other information. We got through that hurdle ok but the key didn’t fit the front door. It had a code combination and we tried every combination we could think of to no avail. Gerry was getting peeved. I could tell by the way he was pulling at the door… And by the number of times he used the F word in one sentence. Continue reading

Misty Hillock

Day 6  Markina – Gernika

Oh my word. Where do I start? We had a nice little stroll last night before dinner; I think we encountered a full set of farm animals! The Suckling Pig was off the menu but no matter we had a pleasant meal. We retired, hoping that a good night sleep would ease Mr S out of his cough and cold and back to walking.

Mmm… Firstly… don’t ever say to us “hark do you hear those lovely cow bells in the hills”! Continue reading

Deviations Ahead

Day 5 – Deba – Markina

After Gerry woke from his slumbers yesterday, we decided to be rebels and leave the dirty laundry for another day and went window shopping with the rest of Deba instead.

This little town may lack some of the tourist glitz of our earlier stops but its charms are still there. We again saw lots of banners supporting Basque and ETA members still imprisoned. It felt wrong or inappropriate to take photos of a large group of silent protesters all holding photos. Later there were bands and groups of singers and we wonder if maybe this is a Basque day of some sort? Continue reading


Day 4 – Zarautz – Deba

Last night, not having worn ourselves out like the previous day, we managed to do as the locals do and take an evening promenade. I absolutely love the custom. It’s like the whole town goes for a walk; old, young, single, couples, groups, families with children, families with dogs… Everyone is out strolling. And when not strolling they are chewing the fat together over coffee or wine or beer or cake or pinxos. What a wonderful time of day. We decided to join them. Continue reading

Oh We Do…

Day 3 San Sebastian – Zarautz

The alarm went off at 7:00. I looked at Gerry, he looked at me. He turned off the alarm, closed his eyes and went back to sleep. We woke again just before 9:00.

Last night we never moved from our hostel. That’s a real shame as we both love San Sebastian but this time we couldn’t muster the energy or enthusiasm to walk back into town. We had spaghetti Bolognese from the hostel bar… It was from a tin and warmed in the microwave and we shared a banana for desert. That meal sort of describes how we felt. Continue reading

Changing Tunes

Day 2 Irun – San Sebastian

Our casa last night was lovely and the perfect place to break the stage from Hendaye.

We sat on the balcony enjoying more tea but as the sun dipped we decided it was chilly so returned to our room. Or we tried to return because the French guests had shut all the doors and locked us out; trapped on the balcony. We banged on the windows and called out but no one heard. As we wandered around I noticed one bedroom door ajar. I called out again and there was no answer so I decided to risk it… I darted in and out unnoticed and unlocked the balcony door for Gerry. thank goodness the occupant never surfaced from the bathroom as I dashed! Continue reading